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We offer a basic fertilizing & weed control program.

BASIC FERTILIZING PROGRAM:

1 Application: LATE WINTER/EARLY SPRING APPLICATION
(Late Feb/March)
Consists of a well-balanced, complete fertilizer, pr-emergent crabgrass control and broad-leaf weed control.

2 Application: LATE SPRING APPLICATION
(May/June)
Consists of a complete seasonal fertilizer and broad-leaf weed control.

3 Application: SUMMER APPLICATION
(July/August)
Consists of an application of Micro-nutrients with Iron, and if weeds are present at the time of application, a spot application of broadleaf weed control is applied as needed.

4 Application: LATE SUMMER APPLICATION
(August/September)
Consists of a complete seasonal fertilizer and broad-leaf weed control.

5 Application. FALL APPLICATION
(October)
Consists of a complete seasonal fertilizer that is designed to help develop your root system for the winter and give your lawn a faster green up in the spring.

6 Application. Winter Application
(November/December)
Consist of slow release nitrogen, Phosphorus-as needed based on soil test results (to stimulate root growth), and Potassium (Potash)-(which aids in enduring the changing weather conditions & helps to fight against diseases.)


Keys To Keeping Lawns Green & Thick:

Fertilization - Regular applications of fertilizer throughout the growing season will build your turf density and it will keep weeds from taking over. The key nutrients for turf that is established are nitrogen and potassium. These two nutrients keep your lawn green, thick and healthy. When over seeding the key nutrient is phosphorous. Phosphorous accelerates grass establishment when seeding.

Proper Watering - Your lawn should receive approximately 1 to 2 inches of water per week during the hottest, driest months. Deep watering to a soil depth of at least six inches is recommended. Light applications of water that merely dampen the grass are of little benefit and can actually harm your lawn.

Watering your lawn in the early morning is ideal. Midday watering, when the weather is hot and dry, can waste water due to excessive evaporation. Evening watering tends to promote disease problems. Keep in mind, the key to effective watering is to give your lawn enough moisture to reach the deep roots of the grass plants.

Mowing Tips - Determining when to mow should be based on the growth rate of the grass, not the calendar. To keep your lawn looking its best, remove only about one-third of the leaf blade each time you mow. Another good practice is to change direction with each mowing. This keeps the turf growing in an erect, upright position rather than leaning in the direction it was mowed. It also helps reduce turf wear and the possibility of scalping.

Keep your mower blade/blades sharp, especially if you are using a rotary mower. This is probably the single, most important maintenance practice. Dull blade/blades rip and shred the grass instead of cutting it. This makes the grass susceptible to other problems like disease and insects. With a rotary mower the blade should be sharpened at least twice a year.

Height.
When deciding on a mowing height, the most important consideration is the variety of turfgrass. Use the table below to determine the optimum height for your turf. During the hottest months, the higher cut is recommended.  
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Know Your Lawn

There are two different categories that lawn grasses fall into: warm-season and cool-season. Warm-season grasses begin their period of active growth in mid-late spring in the tidewater area. If you aerate a warm-season lawn in late spring to early summer, this ensuing period of rapid growth will quickly fill in the holes you create.

Cool-season grasses, like fescue, emerges from summer dormancy in early fall and grows vigorously during the lower temperatures and reduced weed competition typical of fall. Strong growth helps the lawn quickly recover from the stress of aeration. This caveat on fall aeration is this: The time for aeration to allow four weeks of growing time prior to the first frost.


Warm-season turf types – aerate in late spring / early summer: (Mid-April-May)
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When you know you’re going to aerate, do so just prior to fertilizing or reseeding your lawn. Aeration creates openings for nutrients and seed to penetrate soil.
Control weeds prior to aerating, because the process of aerating can spread weed seeds or portions of weedy roots thru out the yard
Wait for at least a year to aerate newly planted lawns, so that grass is well established.
Aerate when soil is moist, but not saturated. So, you may want to water the day prior to having the yard aerated. The tines of a lawn aerator penetrate moist soil more deeply; soil that’s too wet clogs tines. To achieve the correct moisture balance, your lawn should absorb 1 inch of water - delivered through rainfall or irrigation - prior to aerating. This may mean you’ll water for one hour one day prior to aerating or, if your soil is hard, for shorter times on several days prior to aerating.
Avoid aerating during drought or high heat if possible. If you aerate in these conditions, you’ll stress the lawn by allowing heat to dry soil. (A sprinkler system would help reduce drying of the soil & stress.
For lawn core aeration estimates, call or email
Timing Tips For Aerating
Timing.
Determining when to mow should be based on the growth rate of the grass, not on the calendar. To keep your lawn looking its best, remove only about one-third of the leaf blade each time you mow. Another good practice is to change direction with each mowing. This keeps the turf growing in an erect, upright position rather than leaning in the direction it was mowed. It also helps reduce turf wear and the possibility of scalping.

Sharp Blade.
Making sure your rotary mower blade is sharp is probably the single most important requirement for proper mowing. A dull blade rips and shreds the grass instead of cutting it. Mowing with a dull edge makes the grass susceptible to several problems, such as brown leaf tips, diseases and insects. A good guideline for blade sharpening is to sharpen your rotary mower blade once each month. Try it! You’ll really notice the difference.
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Bahia grass
Bermudagrass
Buffalo grass
Centipede grass
St. Augustinegrass
Zoysia grass
Cool-season turf types - aerate in late summer/early fall: (Late August-Oct.)
Aeration Varies With Different Types Of Soil

Different soil types require more frequent aeration. Clay soil compacts easily and should be aerated at least once a year or some cases twice a year. You can aerate a sandy lawn once a year, or you could tackle the chore in alternating years. In arid climates, aerating twice a year will enhance turf growth and health. If your lawn is frequently driven on or used for parking cars, aerate annually.
Creeping bentgrass
Fescue (chewings, hard, red, tall)
Kentucky bluegrass
Rough bluegrass
Ryegrass (annual, perennial)
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Over seeding & Slit Seeding

Over seeding is a method of thickening a lawn that has become thin or damaged by insects, diseases, weeds, drought, excessive traffic or other types of damage.In order for grass seed to germinate, it must be in constant contact with moist soil. A "slit seeder" is a gasoline-powered machine that slices even rows into the soil, and drops grass seed directly into those rows to improve seed-soil contact. Slit seeders are most typically used to apply seed over an existing lawn, where mature grass or weeds may get in the way of the new seed. The slit seeder may tear up some existing grass, but the new seedlings will fill any thin areas within a few weeks.Slit Seeding is achieved by creating small 1/4 inch slits in the soil where seeds are then dropped into the slits and grow.  Seed is distributed in a uniform fashion across the lawn and has a higher seed-to-soil contact than broadcasting.  This is a great way to renovate tired-looking lawns and thicken turf for a plusher-looking lawn. 

For these problems we recommend one of our over seeding services.

Slit Over seeding

Is a mechanical over seeding process of applying seed directly in contact with the soil of an established lawn. It is accomplished by dropping seed into the slits created by an over seeding machine. The blades are designed to slice into the lawn with minimal damage except for some existing thatch being pulled up.

Slit over seeding is also a great way to introduce new cultivars of rye and fescue grass with endophytes properties to combat the damage caused by leaf-feeding insects.

Endophytes are fungi that are scientifically engineered to grow inside the grass plant and taste bad to the insects.  The type of insects repelled by endophytes are typically chinch bugs, pill-bugs and sod web-worms.

Lawn species that may contain endophytes are perennial rye-grass, fine fescues and tall fescue.

Broadcast Over seeding

Is the process of using a rotary broadcast spreader to distribute seed to the turf instead of dropping it with a slit seeder.  Broadcast over seeding alone is not as effective as slit seeding, but it can be a significant benefit for lawns that are not heavily damaged as a maintenance practice rather than to repair a significantly damaged lawn. Over seeding also helps replace grass plants that have died off from summer drought or insect damage and helps thicken up the lawn over the course of two or three seasons.

Timing is essential when over seeding a lawn. The absolute best time to select this service is in the late summer thru mid fall (mid-August to late- Oct.). However spring is also an acceptable time provided there is no chance of frost.The over seeded area must be kept moist by watering several times a day. Seed germination ranges from 7 to 21 days

Certified Seed

We use brand name cultivars of certified seed for our over seeding service.  Certified seed ensures our product contains 99.9% weed free seed. 

Over-seeding service is ordered separately as a individual service or can be included in our premium service packages.
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